We've been pouring resin in our Austin studio for over three years. In that time we've wasted gallons of material on failed experiments, ruined molds, and pieces that looked perfect until we popped them out. This guide is everything we've learned, presented in the order you need to learn it.
Resin art is genuinely rewarding once you understand the material. But it's unforgiving of shortcuts, especially in the first few projects. Take this guide seriously on the safety and measurement sections—they're the foundation everything else builds on.
What Is Epoxy Resin?
Epoxy resin is a two-part liquid that hardens into a clear, glass-like solid when mixed in the correct ratio. Part A is the resin itself and Part B is the hardener (also called the catalyst). When combined, they trigger an exothermic chemical reaction that transforms the liquid into a rigid polymer over 24-72 hours.
The cured result is hard, durable, waterproof, and optically clear. You can add pigments, dyes, glitter, dried flowers, metallic leaf, or basically anything that isn't moisture-laden before it cures.
Materials You Need to Start
- Epoxy resin kit (Part A + Part B). Start with a tabletop-grade epoxy. ArtResin and ProMarine are solid beginner-friendly brands.
- Graduated mixing cups — accuracy matters. Get the kind with clear volume markings.
- Stir sticks — flat wooden or silicone spatulas. You'll go through a lot of these.
- Silicone molds — coaster molds are the easiest starting point. They're forgiving and produce satisfying results.
- Resin pigments — liquid pigment concentrates or mica powder. Start with 3-4 colors maximum.
- Heat gun or butane torch — for popping surface bubbles after pouring.
- Nitrile gloves — not latex. Resin will sensitize your skin over time without protection.
- Respirator mask — a proper N95 or organic vapor respirator, not a dust mask.
- Drop cloth or silicone mat — resin drips are permanent on unprotected surfaces.
Safety First — This Part Isn't Optional
Uncured resin is a sensitizer. This means repeated skin contact can cause you to develop a permanent allergy to it. Once you're sensitized, even brief exposure causes rashes, swelling, or respiratory distress. This is not reversible.
Always wear nitrile gloves when handling mixed or unmixed resin. Always work in a ventilated space. Always wear a respirator when sanding cured resin. These rules have no exceptions, no matter how quick the pour is.
Keep resin away from food preparation areas. Don't pour where pets or children can access the workspace during the 24-72 hour cure window. And store all components in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight.
Mixing: The 1:1 Ratio is Sacred
Most art-grade epoxy resins use a 1:1 ratio by volume. This means equal parts resin and hardener. Getting this wrong—even slightly—results in a piece that stays tacky forever, never fully cures, or develops cloudy patches.
Pour your resin into a graduated cup first, then add the exact same volume of hardener. Stir slowly and thoroughly for a full 3-5 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup. Under-mixed resin leaves soft spots in the cured piece. You'll know you've stirred enough when the liquid goes from cloudy (full of micro-bubbles) to mostly clear.
After mixing, let it rest for 2-3 minutes. Many of those tiny bubbles will rise out on their own during this rest period.
Pouring Techniques
There are dozens of pour styles, but these three are the most accessible for beginners:
- Dirty Pour: Layer multiple colored resins in a single cup without stirring them together, then flip the cup onto your surface or into a mold. The colors separate and create organic cell patterns as they flow.
- Direct Pour: Pour individual colors directly from their cups into different areas of the mold, then use a stick or heat gun to guide their movement. More controlled than a dirty pour.
- Layered Pour: Pour one layer, let it partially cure (about 4-8 hours), then pour a second layer on top. Creates depth and dimension. Great for ocean and geode effects.
Curing: Patience Is the Hardest Part
After pouring, your piece needs 24-72 hours to fully cure depending on thickness and ambient temperature. During this time:
- Keep the piece level and undisturbed
- Cover it with a box or dome to prevent dust from settling on the surface
- Maintain room temperature between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit
- Don't touch it, tilt it, or move it for at least 24 hours
The surface will feel dry to the touch after about 12 hours, but the interior is still curing. Full hardness takes 72 hours. Don't sand, drill, or demold before 48 hours at minimum.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Sticky surface that won't cure: Incorrect ratio. Unfortunately, there's no fix. You'll need to scrape it off and start over. Measure more carefully next time.
Bubbles trapped in the piece: Either you mixed too aggressively, didn't torch the surface after pouring, or poured in too-cold conditions. Use a heat gun at a distance of 6-8 inches, moving constantly, within the first 20 minutes of the pour.
Yellowing over time: Your resin isn't UV-stable. Switch to a UV-resistant formula. Some yellowing in direct sunlight is unavoidable with certain brands, but high-quality art resins resist it for years.
Fish eyes or craters: Contamination on your mold surface. Clean molds with isopropyl alcohol before every pour. Even a fingerprint can cause defects.
Your First Project: Coaster Set
Start here. Coasters use small amounts of material, cure quickly in silicone molds, and produce something you can actually use. Buy a 4-cavity round coaster mold, mix 8-10 ounces of resin total, divide it into cups, add pigment, and do a dirty pour into each cavity. Torch the surface, cover, and wait 48 hours. Sand the backs smooth with 220-grit sandpaper and add adhesive cork pads.
You'll have four usable coasters and a clear sense of how the material behaves. From there, scale up to trays, then panels, then whatever catches your imagination.